Catching up!

Sunday:

Have now added some photos to yesterday's post.

Had a “domesticated” morning making myself a belt for my poncho by plaiting garden twine *grin* not at all sure it would work for very long, but in the end, Howard kindly gave me the belt he had been lending me.

My walk for this day involved walking down the Strond Road along the coast to the end, then taking the “easy” path to Rodel!

En route, passed the ruin of the cottage where the Paisley sisters first wove Harris Tweed.

By this time - of course - the rain started in earnest, & the forecast Force 7 gale came in to play also! But later the sun did come out to stay.

I had spotted my goal of St Clement’s Church in the distance already,

 & eventually found the path (after a few false starts) & started down the hill, then up a much bigger hill!

The problem for me is that as I can’t see my feet, so, seeing the path beneath them is pretty major!!

However, this time it wasn’t quite as bad as the broad path was only a stream or bog in places!

So it was up & over & through, & then suddenly Rodel was just down there with a very good view of St Clement’s pretty much all the time.

It is a really fascinating old church where local chieftans are buried - their prominence down through the ages is obvious by the setting.

            Looking towards East end

            The West end

North to South orientation

Detail of 1st century carving on tomb

Whilst doing an extensive walk around I suddenly realised I was looking at a wild goose on the next rise!

Looking @ the SE corner

Before leaving the area I looked back at the way I'd come

Then on down to Rodel harbour

the back of the hotel!
 

I capped the day off with a slap-up dinner @ the Rodel Hotel - it being the ONLY place that is open on a Sunday!!

Howard brought Sallie over to share a drink (them not me!) when he came to pick me up which was really excellent, & I enjoyed chatting with them very much.

Monday: The day was fine in Leverburgh when I left. The boys went out to St Kilda *sigh* & I had so nearly changed to stay on that extra day! Oh well. Never mind.

I arrived in Berneray & it was bloody hailing & blowing a gale as I got off the ferry! Unbelievable - you should have heard the bus driver on the subject!

Found the B&B OK @ the end of the road & arranged for the lass driving the bus to pick me up @ the same time tomorrow to head down to Eriskay.

Had a ‘be kind to Anna’ day, & only went for a short walk to the Heritage Centre which looked as tho’ it had been shut for many a year, & also to the old graveyard with a ruined chapel (it had nothing like the feel of the Chapel on Toe Head Pennisular).

Then I found a track (so it started to rain!) that I thought would lead to the sea, & indeed it did. A superb beach with the tide coming in, & found a convenient hump to sit on to contemplate. Mmmmm - lovely.

The 1st of 2 days.

Fell asleep last night trying to write this! Will probably do the same tonight after having an evening meal!!! I shouted myself dinner @ the Rodel Hotel, as being a Sunday in the Outer Hebrides it was literally the ONLY place open! So decided to blow the budget - oh dear again, but the 1st time on food!!

So last night I started.......

It wasn’t a very long walk today, but I found it extremely nerve-wracking & stressful. However, having said that, it was fascinating country - quite different to the West Coast.
But, “let’s start @ the very beginning, a very good place to start“ & I‘ll try to explain!

Sallie suggested at breakfast that as they were driving to Stornoway later, I might like to go part of the way with them & just do a short walk, then get the bus in to Tarbert, & from thence back to Leverbugh.

Well it seemed like a good idea as there was the odd sunny patch occasionally!!!!

I took myself in to Leverburgh first as I hadn't explored the township, & by chance re-met the very pleasant young NZ guy I had met in Inverness.

Then Sallie & Howard picked me up, & we drove up the 'Peat Road' heading in the direction of the East Coast. Fascinating country, quite different - yet again. The rocks are so weird & unusual that part of the movie 2001 was filmed there as apparently they are the same sort of rocks as on the moon???? & only found there on this planet!

(Unfortunately, because I hadn't known we were going to do this, I didn't have my camera handy, so missed some wonderful opportunities.)

Suddenly, Howard stopped the car, & said: "Right U'll be able to get the bus in to Tarbert down the road @ D..?? @ ten past two. The track is just over there to the left of the chapel."

Knowing it was the ONLY bus, I panicked & as I had absolutely no idea which way I was to walk, or where I was going over what sort of terrain - I was really thrown.

Of course, as they drove away inevitably, it started pouring with rain!

The track was, in actual fact, a stream as there had been so much rain, & everything else underfoot was peat bog! When I managed to extract my foot & lugged it out, it felt like a ton weight; my stick came apart as I tried to pull it out, & by that time the other foot was also waterlogged - not an auspicious start.

How long would it take me? No idea, so 'hurried' as best I could!

I was in the middle of some lovely country with no habitation anywhere except from where I had started & presumably where I was going to - wherever that was! So to be honest I didn't enjoy it that much, altho' it turned out I made it to the road with time to spare!

Ah, there's the road!

Waiting for the bus:

Tarbert Harbour. I think the red boat is the one I should have been going on to St Kilda

So you think you have wet weather gear?

So what else do you do when you can’t go to St Kilda which was the big dream, it’s pouring rain & blowing a gale & about 8 degrees????


 Well, you go t’ Chapel of course!

                                                         Traigh an Taoibh Thuath
                                                                   (Northton Beach)

Instructions said to “follow the fence line” - I don’t think so:

                           
And now, if you look very carefully, U should be able to see my goal on the little peninsular in the middle distance:

Got a photo of the sea breaking for once - well sorta:

Despite the wind & the rain, there is always time to stop & enjoy the flowers!!!

And the oyster catchers feeding:

Getting there:

Really close now:

                                         Rubh’ An Teampaill Medeival Chapel

First a glimpse through the side windows:

In through the door:

The West End:

View through the south window:

Looking back through the door to Chairpaval now shrouded in cloud:

The niche for Communion vessels:

So now to the East window:

After some time of contemplation I let out a yelp as a figure went past!!! I was not alone anymore! So I then went outside to wait them out!!!

My patience was rewarded and I did get more time alone.

But I was so very wet by this time, it seemed sensible to make my return.

A last look through the East window:

Had more than a few nasty moments on the way back - literally getting blown over by the wind & that's no easy feat!!

And, as the title suggests, I really did think I had good wet weather gear, but......... wet through 5 layers (the outer 3 usually waterproof) & my boots also are so wet that I couldn't go out for tea  & I seriously doubt if they will be dry by tomorrow even tho' they too are meant to be waterproof!!

 I think you will find Toe Head Chapel on Google Earth @:

Latitude: 57°48'31.43"N
Longitude: 7° 6'6.48"W  


Sorry that I haven't yet learnt how to put photos in to various places etc. yet to make it more interesting!

Could someone PLEASE tell me how I can post more than 1 photo without having to navigate away from the page every time to post another! This took SOOOOOOO long - but I was determined to do it once started!!                           

To St Kilda or no?

Am waiting to hear whether or not I'll be going to St Kilda tomorrow or not. It is very doubtful & the alternate day is out of the question apparently. But @ least I'm in a good B&B, but it is in a very 'out of the way' spot, but there are possibly alternatives.

And I have just found out that it is definitely off. The weather is just too bad. Well, it was always likely to be so, & maybe I will get to do something almost as good. But I am disappointed as it was going to be 1 of the highlights of this adventure.

The change in the country is quite remarkable between Lewis

& Harris

- altho' I don't exactly know where one ends & the other begins, but it was pretty obvious.

[Managed to keep my small taste of breakfast down along the bumpy road, so that's a good sign, but I was a bit dubious at times!!!!]

Standing Stones etc.

I think I'll live! A very unpleasant episode of perhaps food poisoning or a bug, or whatever that I could have done without!

However, that being said, yesterday, I braved the elements (with bags just in case!) & after not getting the bus I wanted - as it had changed routes!! - I eventually got a very bumpy ride out to the Calloway Broch - fascinating - & the Callanish Standing Stones - amazing.

Had to contend with a very strange German man, perhaps he had Tourettes, & was a wee bit anxious @ being trapped inside with him - especially when he jumped over the wall!

                                                                 Inside the broch

In fact he gave me such a fright on the way down when he was suddenly right behind me that I fell over!

Interesting return journey picking up & depositing school kids to their doors!

Unfortunately due to missing that 1st bus, it proved impossible to link up with the other to get up to the Butt of Lewis.

Had to find a laundrette - due to my dastardly condition - which was a bit of a problem, & by the time I'd done that, the buses had stopped running!!!

It seems that I may miss out on getting out to St Kilda unless the weather improves considerably, which will be an enormous disappointment, but ........ c'est la vie.

Have added some photos to earlier posts - if U R interested!

Unwell

Really unwell folks, will try to update later! Turns out it was not just 'mal de mer' crossing to Outer Hebrides, tho' that was not the most pleasant of trips.

Wild weather!

After a late night, & a very early start, arrived in Rhue - outside of Ullapool. Earlier there was occasional sunshine but the weather has really closed in now, & it may be that I won't get over to Stornoway tomorrow if the ferry can't sail! Looking very dubious @ this stage.

                                                   Hopefully I'll be on it tomorrow!                                            

However, I braved the elements for a walk out to the wee lighthouse, but it was touch & go a few times, so decided discrection was indeed the better part.

                                                  To the Lighthouse - 'scuse rain on lens!

                                                                      From the lighthouse
It is truly gorgeous country, & am glad I decided on the day here - despite the wind & the painful cutting rain. Dog, 3 cats very superior breeds, plus friends staying!

Now hopefully I'll hopefully post some photos!

Crossing over: